POLONNARUWA
(THE MEDIEVAL CAPITAL)
Polonnaruwa, which became the capital of Sri Lanka following the decline of Anuradhapura, was to witness the Sinhalese Buddhist civilization reaching still greater heights. The vast irrigation network with reservoirs that look like natural in-land seas sustained such epic scales in rice cultivation, during the reign of king Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D), Sri Lanka became known as the Granary of the Orient. Among the main tourist attractions at Polonnaruwa are preserved ruins of magnificent royal palaces, enormous Buddhist temples, intact monumental sculpture in colossal statues carved from sold rock boulders that once rivaled Anuradhapura in magnificence.
Today, Polonnaruwa, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its preserved ruins and restored ancient irrigation reservoirs is a “must visit” cultural destination of Sri Lanka Holidays. As much as the preserved cultural monuments would enlighten the tourists, the wild life sanctuaries in the district of Polonnaruwa affords ample opportunities for the joy and fun in the close range of wild elephants, other mammals to the lovers of wildlife. At the city of Polonnaruwa itself is the largest ancient irrigation reservoir called Parakrama Samudra (Sinhala: the Sea of Parakrama) is always lovely, and with the plethora of birdlife, it is seldom that there is not something interesting going on upon its shimmering expanses of waters. No rest house in Sri Lanka Holidays has a lovelier waterscape than that of Polonnaruwa Rest House nestled at the end of the immense motorable bund of the magnificent reservoir under the shade of mighty trees. Immediately to the south of Parakrama Samudra ancient man-made lake, sandwiched between River Amban Ganga and River Mahaweli Ganga in the district of Polonnaruwa is Wasgomuwa National Park; to the just north east of Polonnaruwa town is Flood Plains National Park; still further to the north east, again within the Polonnaruwa district is Somawathiya National Park; to the north west in the Polonnaruwa district is Minneriya Giritale National Park enclosing vast Minneriya irrigation reservoir and Giritale rainwater reservoir; to the further west is the transportation hub and accommodation option of Habarana, another wildlife sanctuary. Polonnaruwa takes your breath away. |
|
"THE ANCIENT KINGDOM"
The history Polonnaruwa goes as far as 6th century BC when a minister of the king Vijaya (From whom the Sinhalese race was born) established a town called “Vijitha Grama” on the area now called Kaduruwela. This is also the place for the famous “Battle of Vijithapura” between the Great King Dutugamunu (161-131 BC) and the Tamil invader Elara in his effort to re-unite the country under one Sinhalese King. This area was gradually developed as an influential agricultural town with large irrigation tanks and complex waterways built by various kings who ruled from Anuradhapura.
The selection of Polonnaruwa as the capital was not random choice by the invaders but a strategic choice. Polonnaruwa was developed to be the next kingdom by the Sri Lankan kings from the fifth century BC itself and even during the Anuradhapura era some kings chose this area to rule from whenever the Anuradhapura was under siege.`
Anuradhapura was first kingdom in Sri Lanka and lasted for over 15 centuries from the 4th century BC. The last king of Anuradhapura was the king Mahinda V who was captured by Chola Invaders from South India in 993 and took him prisoner and was taken to India. Later he died in India itself. The Chola Invaders destroyed everything in Anuradhapura and took their ruling capital to Polonnaruwa in 1017 which they called “Jananathapuram”. During this period most of the Sinhalese in these areas migrated to the south to escape the cruelties of this Tamil ruler. After the death of King Mahinda in 1029 in India, the Sinhalese started a definite revolution stating from the South. This revolt was headed by the youngest son of King Mahinda who died unexpectedly. Ten years later a prince by the name of Keerthi made the final attack on Polonnaruwa in 1070 and defeated the “Soli” king who reigned the area for almost 75 years. He held his consecration in Anuradhapura as king Vijayabahu (see The Royal palace of King Vijayabahu I in Anuradhapura) and made his ruling capital Polonnaruwa
The selection of Polonnaruwa as the capital was not random choice by the invaders but a strategic choice. Polonnaruwa was developed to be the next kingdom by the Sri Lankan kings from the fifth century BC itself and even during the Anuradhapura era some kings chose this area to rule from whenever the Anuradhapura was under siege.`
Anuradhapura was first kingdom in Sri Lanka and lasted for over 15 centuries from the 4th century BC. The last king of Anuradhapura was the king Mahinda V who was captured by Chola Invaders from South India in 993 and took him prisoner and was taken to India. Later he died in India itself. The Chola Invaders destroyed everything in Anuradhapura and took their ruling capital to Polonnaruwa in 1017 which they called “Jananathapuram”. During this period most of the Sinhalese in these areas migrated to the south to escape the cruelties of this Tamil ruler. After the death of King Mahinda in 1029 in India, the Sinhalese started a definite revolution stating from the South. This revolt was headed by the youngest son of King Mahinda who died unexpectedly. Ten years later a prince by the name of Keerthi made the final attack on Polonnaruwa in 1070 and defeated the “Soli” king who reigned the area for almost 75 years. He held his consecration in Anuradhapura as king Vijayabahu (see The Royal palace of King Vijayabahu I in Anuradhapura) and made his ruling capital Polonnaruwa
Gal Viharaya
perfect specimen of Buddha statue hewn out of solid stone. Crafted during the reign of King Parakrabahu (1153-1186 A.C), Gal Vihara statues are still in complete preservation with their irresistible charm and sublimity. It is undeniable that the sculptors of Gal Vihara were of greater skill and expertise in the art of stone sculpture in Sri Lanka. The images at Gal Vihara have brought about higher level of awakening in the observers with respect of Buddhist art in Sri Lanka.
Gal Vihara, Polonnaruwa known as “The Northern Temple” in the beginning of its history, is a cave complex, about 27 meters in length and 10 meters in height at the centre and sloping towards the ends, with sculptures carved on the solid rock in four shrines.
Gal Vihara, like numerous other Buddhist shrines of Sri Lanka, is a shrine of Theravada Buddhism. Then again Gal Vihara testifies to the influence of Mahayana Buddhism during the 12th century.
Caves of Gal Vihara
Gal Vihara consists of four cave shrines with sculptures hallowed out of a granite rock.Caves from left to right are
(a) Cave of Vijjadharas,
(b) Excavated Cave,
(c) Cave of Standing Image and
(d) Cave of Reclining Image.
Between the Excavated Cave and the Cave of Standing Image is an inscription. In front of the Excavated Cave are remains of a pavilion.
Though the brick walls of the four shrines had collapsed centuries ago, the foundations remain giving evidence that each statue was separated from one another.
Cave of Vijjadharas
The cave consists of a main image of Buddha sculpted out of the rock boulder, having carved round and four small bas relief carvings of Buddha. The small bas relief statues are carved on either sides, above the head of the main image.
The main image depicts the chief of meditative Buddhas titled Dharmadhatu, Adi Buddha, Vairocana and Vajrasattva.
The four small images of the Buddha in Dhayani Mudra represent the four directions of the universe.
All five images are of Dhyana Mudra or meditative posture is believed to depict the all embracing Body of Law (Dharmakaya).
The Excavated Cave
The Excavated cave too houses an image of Buddha in dhayana mudra or meditative attitude sculpted out of the rock boulder. The image herein is smaller than the main image at Vijjadhara Cave.
The Cave of Standing Image
The Buddha statue rising to 7 meters in height herein, stands on a lotus pedestal called Padmasana. Padmasana signifies that Buddha is a transcendental being.
The Cave of Standing image: Ananda or Buddha
The standing statue is at the head of the massive reclining Buddha. The standing statue’s placing of arms across the breast has caused a controversy as to the identity of the statue. The early archeologists believed the statue was that of Ananda, an attendant disciple of Buddha grieving at the passing away of Buddha.
However, the subsequent studies at Gal Vihara on the features of the statue have established that the standing image is that of Buddha and not of his disciple Ananda.
Firstly, since the standing image was once contained in its own shrine room, separated by brick walls it has no relevance to the reclining image. Though the brick walls of the three caves had collapsed several centuries ago, the foundations can still be seen.
Secondly, the right-ward curled clusters of hair are only found on the images of the Buddha and not on the images of his disciples in the same period.
Thirdly, the Buddhist artists never offered the Lotus throne or Padmasana to disciples Fourthly, the ears of the statue herein are elongated. Of all the statues of Buddha, his disciples and deities, only the images of Buddhas consist of elongated ears.
The Cave of Reclining Image
The reclining image of Buddha at this cave is 14 meter long. In spite of the colossal proportions, the statue carries supreme grace and serenity.
The Cave of Reclining Image: Reclining posture Vs. Parinirvana posture
The argument over the massive statue with respect of Buddha’s posture of passing away and the posture of reclining was won over by the proponents who established that the great statue at this cave is a reclining image.
Firstly herein the Buddha statue with lotus symbol in the palms and feet, is sculpted in the posture called Simhaseyya: the pose of a sleeping lion. The lion sleeps resting its head on its right paw.
Secondly,in Sri Lanka the theme of passing away wasn’t taken as a popular feature in Buddhist art.
Thirdly the images that regularly accompany the images of Buddha’s passing away, i.e.images of disciples, sal trees and flowers aren’t present at this statue
Gal Vihara, Polonnaruwa known as “The Northern Temple” in the beginning of its history, is a cave complex, about 27 meters in length and 10 meters in height at the centre and sloping towards the ends, with sculptures carved on the solid rock in four shrines.
Gal Vihara, like numerous other Buddhist shrines of Sri Lanka, is a shrine of Theravada Buddhism. Then again Gal Vihara testifies to the influence of Mahayana Buddhism during the 12th century.
Caves of Gal Vihara
Gal Vihara consists of four cave shrines with sculptures hallowed out of a granite rock.Caves from left to right are
(a) Cave of Vijjadharas,
(b) Excavated Cave,
(c) Cave of Standing Image and
(d) Cave of Reclining Image.
Between the Excavated Cave and the Cave of Standing Image is an inscription. In front of the Excavated Cave are remains of a pavilion.
Though the brick walls of the four shrines had collapsed centuries ago, the foundations remain giving evidence that each statue was separated from one another.
Cave of Vijjadharas
The cave consists of a main image of Buddha sculpted out of the rock boulder, having carved round and four small bas relief carvings of Buddha. The small bas relief statues are carved on either sides, above the head of the main image.
The main image depicts the chief of meditative Buddhas titled Dharmadhatu, Adi Buddha, Vairocana and Vajrasattva.
The four small images of the Buddha in Dhayani Mudra represent the four directions of the universe.
All five images are of Dhyana Mudra or meditative posture is believed to depict the all embracing Body of Law (Dharmakaya).
The Excavated Cave
The Excavated cave too houses an image of Buddha in dhayana mudra or meditative attitude sculpted out of the rock boulder. The image herein is smaller than the main image at Vijjadhara Cave.
The Cave of Standing Image
The Buddha statue rising to 7 meters in height herein, stands on a lotus pedestal called Padmasana. Padmasana signifies that Buddha is a transcendental being.
The Cave of Standing image: Ananda or Buddha
The standing statue is at the head of the massive reclining Buddha. The standing statue’s placing of arms across the breast has caused a controversy as to the identity of the statue. The early archeologists believed the statue was that of Ananda, an attendant disciple of Buddha grieving at the passing away of Buddha.
However, the subsequent studies at Gal Vihara on the features of the statue have established that the standing image is that of Buddha and not of his disciple Ananda.
Firstly, since the standing image was once contained in its own shrine room, separated by brick walls it has no relevance to the reclining image. Though the brick walls of the three caves had collapsed several centuries ago, the foundations can still be seen.
Secondly, the right-ward curled clusters of hair are only found on the images of the Buddha and not on the images of his disciples in the same period.
Thirdly, the Buddhist artists never offered the Lotus throne or Padmasana to disciples Fourthly, the ears of the statue herein are elongated. Of all the statues of Buddha, his disciples and deities, only the images of Buddhas consist of elongated ears.
The Cave of Reclining Image
The reclining image of Buddha at this cave is 14 meter long. In spite of the colossal proportions, the statue carries supreme grace and serenity.
The Cave of Reclining Image: Reclining posture Vs. Parinirvana posture
The argument over the massive statue with respect of Buddha’s posture of passing away and the posture of reclining was won over by the proponents who established that the great statue at this cave is a reclining image.
Firstly herein the Buddha statue with lotus symbol in the palms and feet, is sculpted in the posture called Simhaseyya: the pose of a sleeping lion. The lion sleeps resting its head on its right paw.
Secondly,in Sri Lanka the theme of passing away wasn’t taken as a popular feature in Buddhist art.
Thirdly the images that regularly accompany the images of Buddha’s passing away, i.e.images of disciples, sal trees and flowers aren’t present at this statue
Palace of King Parakramabahu
This is a majestic palace build by king Parakramabahu with seven stories and said to have 1000 chambers. Although the main building possibly couldn’t hold such a number of chambers, when you consider the whole palace complex it is thought that this number is a possibility.
Today you can see the massive walls over a metre thick going upto about 30 feet (9 metres) and the bottom half of the main stairway which led to upper floors. Inside the building you can see parts of melted brick walls caused by intense heat when this was set fire by Tamil invaders at the end of Polonnaruwa era. Around the main palace there are remains of more buildings where the ministers, solders and servants lived.
Large holes in the wall probably held massive wooden structures that formed the floor of the upper levels.
Even after facing such destruction by human hand and then by Mother Nature for 800 years, the plastering on these walls still remains in some places.
An architect’s impression of what it would have looked can be seen at the Polonnaruwa museum in a form of miniature model.
Today you can see the massive walls over a metre thick going upto about 30 feet (9 metres) and the bottom half of the main stairway which led to upper floors. Inside the building you can see parts of melted brick walls caused by intense heat when this was set fire by Tamil invaders at the end of Polonnaruwa era. Around the main palace there are remains of more buildings where the ministers, solders and servants lived.
Large holes in the wall probably held massive wooden structures that formed the floor of the upper levels.
Even after facing such destruction by human hand and then by Mother Nature for 800 years, the plastering on these walls still remains in some places.
An architect’s impression of what it would have looked can be seen at the Polonnaruwa museum in a form of miniature model.
Vatadage
The centerpiece of the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, the Dalada Maluwa (the hall of the Tooth Relic), was a sacred precinct containing 12 magnificent buildings. Although there are numerous vatadage across Sri Lanka, the Vatadage at Polonnaruwa is the most famous. As with many other vatadage, it had a stupa in the centre with four Buddha images facing the cardinal directions.
The Vatadage, one of the oldest & most beautiful monuments in Polonnaruwa, is to our left as we enter the Dalada Maluwa. In spite of its modest proportions, the circular building with concentric terraces is a superbly planned & executed 12th century masterpiece. It was certainly intended to house the Sacred Tooth Relic of Buddha, which is now deposited at The Sacred Temple of Tooth in Kandy. Built by King Parakrambahu the great (1164-1196AD), it was later embellished by King Nissankamalla (1198-1206).
Outer structure, the first terrace
The entire outer structure with a diameter of 18m is a gorgeous riot of artistry, with almost every surface carved in a melee of decoration. The outer wall is decorated with friezes of lions & dwarfs, & topped by an abstract lotus design.
Upper structure, the second terrace
Four entrances to the upper terrace are adorned with magnificent stone carvings: moonstones flanked by nagaraja (Cobra king) figures with seven hooded cobra head guardstones.
While the Nagaraja figures were believed to prevent evil spirits entering the premises, the moonstones- elaborate semi-circular welcome step stones carved in polished granite- represent the spiritual journey from samsara, the endless cycle of death & rebirth, to Nirvana, the ultimate escape from suffering. These were unique decorative features of Sinhalese architecture. The moonstone at the northern entrance is the finest in Polonnaruwa.
Central dagoba (stupa)
From the upper terrace, steps lead through four entrances, aligned in the cardinal directions & each presided over by a seated Buddha. In the center are the ruins of the small central brick stupa in which the Tooth Relic was enshrined during the glorious days of ancient capital, Polonnaruwa. In sharp contrast to the building, this innermost sanctum, the reason for the very existence of Vatadage itself, is virtually unadorned.
Lost to the Dravidian invaders
The building has lost the conical roof of three concentric circles, most of the dagoba (stupa) and one of its guardstones at the base of the steps among many other features & surrounding buildings to the marauding Dravidian invaders from South India.
The Vatadage, one of the oldest & most beautiful monuments in Polonnaruwa, is to our left as we enter the Dalada Maluwa. In spite of its modest proportions, the circular building with concentric terraces is a superbly planned & executed 12th century masterpiece. It was certainly intended to house the Sacred Tooth Relic of Buddha, which is now deposited at The Sacred Temple of Tooth in Kandy. Built by King Parakrambahu the great (1164-1196AD), it was later embellished by King Nissankamalla (1198-1206).
Outer structure, the first terrace
The entire outer structure with a diameter of 18m is a gorgeous riot of artistry, with almost every surface carved in a melee of decoration. The outer wall is decorated with friezes of lions & dwarfs, & topped by an abstract lotus design.
Upper structure, the second terrace
Four entrances to the upper terrace are adorned with magnificent stone carvings: moonstones flanked by nagaraja (Cobra king) figures with seven hooded cobra head guardstones.
While the Nagaraja figures were believed to prevent evil spirits entering the premises, the moonstones- elaborate semi-circular welcome step stones carved in polished granite- represent the spiritual journey from samsara, the endless cycle of death & rebirth, to Nirvana, the ultimate escape from suffering. These were unique decorative features of Sinhalese architecture. The moonstone at the northern entrance is the finest in Polonnaruwa.
Central dagoba (stupa)
From the upper terrace, steps lead through four entrances, aligned in the cardinal directions & each presided over by a seated Buddha. In the center are the ruins of the small central brick stupa in which the Tooth Relic was enshrined during the glorious days of ancient capital, Polonnaruwa. In sharp contrast to the building, this innermost sanctum, the reason for the very existence of Vatadage itself, is virtually unadorned.
Lost to the Dravidian invaders
The building has lost the conical roof of three concentric circles, most of the dagoba (stupa) and one of its guardstones at the base of the steps among many other features & surrounding buildings to the marauding Dravidian invaders from South India.
Lotus Pond
The Pokuna or the baths found at Polonnaruwa are comparatively of modest dimensions.
The architecturally perfect Kumara pokuna found close to King Parakramabahu's palace, the pokuna found near the rest house and believed to be that of King Nissanka malla, the austere baths of the Alahana pirivena are some examples.
Lotus pond
Yet a jewel of the pokuna architecture lies hidden along the lonely road to the northern city, well away from the bus loads of pilgrims and tourists that crowd Polonnaruwa’s more famous quadrangle packed with ruins from different dynasties differing in architecture and style.
The Nelum pokuna or the Lotus bath is a small stone bath of completely unique design, built in tiers of eight petalled lotuses in descending form.
The fine cut granite is in excellent formation and an absolute delight to the modern day tourist. The atmosphere of garden-like surroundings with its ancient flowering trees enhance its magnificence.
The chronicle speaks of a lotus bath among many ponds constructed by Parakramabahu the Great. It is believed to be the bath provided by the King for the monks belonging to the Jetavana Vihara.
Lotus pond
The Archaeological Commissioner describing this granite marvel in his annual Report for 1990 says that the artistic conception of the stone bath is worthy of all praise.
He requests the reader to imagine a gigantic lotus flower of granite in full bloom 24 ft. 9 in. diameter, with five concentric laminae of eight petals, gradually diminishing to a stamen 5 ft. 4 in. across.
Then decide to reverse nature’s order and instead of the convex shape depress the petal rings into concavity 4ft. 6 in. depth and we have the granite lotus bath as it exits in all its shapeliness to this day.
Most tourist miss this site. But if you are lucky to visit it on a quiet evening or early morning it is a spot of great romance which will beckon you every time you visit Polonnaruwa.
The architecturally perfect Kumara pokuna found close to King Parakramabahu's palace, the pokuna found near the rest house and believed to be that of King Nissanka malla, the austere baths of the Alahana pirivena are some examples.
Lotus pond
Yet a jewel of the pokuna architecture lies hidden along the lonely road to the northern city, well away from the bus loads of pilgrims and tourists that crowd Polonnaruwa’s more famous quadrangle packed with ruins from different dynasties differing in architecture and style.
The Nelum pokuna or the Lotus bath is a small stone bath of completely unique design, built in tiers of eight petalled lotuses in descending form.
The fine cut granite is in excellent formation and an absolute delight to the modern day tourist. The atmosphere of garden-like surroundings with its ancient flowering trees enhance its magnificence.
The chronicle speaks of a lotus bath among many ponds constructed by Parakramabahu the Great. It is believed to be the bath provided by the King for the monks belonging to the Jetavana Vihara.
Lotus pond
The Archaeological Commissioner describing this granite marvel in his annual Report for 1990 says that the artistic conception of the stone bath is worthy of all praise.
He requests the reader to imagine a gigantic lotus flower of granite in full bloom 24 ft. 9 in. diameter, with five concentric laminae of eight petals, gradually diminishing to a stamen 5 ft. 4 in. across.
Then decide to reverse nature’s order and instead of the convex shape depress the petal rings into concavity 4ft. 6 in. depth and we have the granite lotus bath as it exits in all its shapeliness to this day.
Most tourist miss this site. But if you are lucky to visit it on a quiet evening or early morning it is a spot of great romance which will beckon you every time you visit Polonnaruwa.